Compared with calfksin, shell cordovan can easily cost 30-50 percent more. I have had a pair of Alden loafers in colour 8 (which you rarely ever see in the wild where I live but feel hopelessly unoriginal after reading this article and the comments) for years and all I needed to do as you say is the occasional brush or rub down with a piece of cloth and keep them on shoe trees. What I notice (and Ive seen online photos that confirm my experience) is that the two shoes are not aging or developing a patina the same way. Thank you for a most interesting article. Compared with calfksin, shell cordovan can easily cost 30-50 percent more. No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. That Saphir Jucacuir is probably good for color matching, and maybe only for more porous leather. He will know how much cloth he uses for his shirts. As mentioned in the article, I think its that versatility that enables it to bridge formal and casual a bit. I cannot remember polishing them for the last 5 years or so of their life- just a quick rub down. The Stitchdown Premium Discord live-chat is waiting for you. The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. 2. See comments above on availability in the UK Steven. These were mostly from vintage shops and eBay. Do they actually do anything? After that, though, the quality of the leather, in particular, its resistance to stretching has meant that theyve molded to my feet without getting too loose. In early June, I left them out when it rained a bit. When looking at potential alternatives to No.8 that are UK based, do you have a view on EGs nightshade and burgundy options? Sometimes, the people that do so like many farmers Ive met have more respect for the animals than anyone else. This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. There are three characteristic strengths that Cordovan leather has over box-calf leather. Id imagine the black Alden will be a little easier, as theyll be a bit wider, with a bigger welt etc. Some like that sturdiness, while some dislike it and have a hard time breaking in corodovan shoes and getting them comfortable due to this, a bit depending on how sensitive your feet are. Thanks Quention. Theres a couple of nice ones on the Barrie Im eyeing. Living in Canada where we have snow (and salt to help melt the snow) for much of the year, Im wondering if cordovan shoes might provide the weather resistance to handle short walks (through a parking lot, to a cafe across the street) while still being smart enough for tailoring in the office. Do you have any tips to reduce that sound ? Or other reason? Thank you. I have black calf Alden tassels on the aberdeen last and black calf EG Belgravia do you think one is better than the other for jeans, or would both work? The Carmina styles often seem like a bit of a mismatch to me too smart a style (eg thin welt) for the leather. My interest in good shoes started when I bought some Santoni black cordovan chukka boots in an outlet shop in Kitzbuhel for about a hundred quid. after Elliots brother found him in the river! Hi Simon, Where is it from? What do you think of cordovan shoes made by UK manufacturers like Crocketts? And this heavy, characterful creasing is what gives cordovan shoes such a casual feel. Nick Horween has said that most horse hides he gets are from Canada where horses are eaten, so the skins are by products. Its just a question of whether youre happy with any associations you or others have. Would you advise to work with black cream to darken it? They are wide and flat, so theoretically, I would need pretty wide lasts to be comfortable. Whatever yours was, it probably wasnt made from shell cordovan leather. What is the least formal outfit someone can wear with a pair of cordovan split toe chukka boots? Gear Patrol participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites. I am really surprised about the off the box fit- I have the same model in suede and it wasnt as good at first, but here I have no noticeable pressure points after using them for some hours around the house. Its puzzling really why they dont step it up in this area. A guide on how to care for cordovan shoes can be found here. Or at the very least, for the first day or two after wear. Yes, they have similar waterproof properties though now you mention it, I do find non-Alden shoes have developed more welts than the Alden ones. BTW: I totally get your preference of color 8 over black. Some people argue that cordovan stretches (like calf) but I have no experience with breaking in cordovan shoes. The only thing that comes close is suede, and that is never quite as smart. Mine have all been within the past 4-5 years. The aging process of leather shoes is something a shoe connoisseur relishes. Whether you should buy them is really up to you. Shell cordovan is a truly rare and unique material, and prices vary, though it hovers around $100 per square foot. Apologies, yes youre right Visa. Yes youre right, those are the Kaans, I dont have any pictures of the Aldens. What about colored cream vs neutral cream? 9E in the Barrie. Theres so much oil in there already, and you risk getting white lines in the creases. Im a little particular about a belt being similar i colour to the shoe colour. Its generally not possible to do much. All of my Aldens are comfortablethe most important thing in any shoeand Alden makes a quality product at a fair price. Shell cordovan is prized for its beauty and durability, but with a painful break-in period and steep price tag, is the so-called king of leather worth the fuss? Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain. Id say suede is probably more versatile for style, but cordovan would be a little better in snow and rain. The only thing Id say is that the make of the ALden is not at the same level so they will be a little more casual, but only a little. Both were in a burgundy. Pardon my ignorance, but is there a historic and/or cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes in the United States? But after five or six hours of being out and about in town, they start to hurt. I was in business. Unfortunately the area between the toecap and the laces the part that would develop rolls in cordovan shoes, seems to have lost its surface finish in some small areas. Maybe inside a humidor??? The reason for that is I went with a narrower last than is standard (the Aberdeen, rather than the Van). I was hoping to get the benefit of your advise. Recent vintages seem to be noticeably darker and more purple than shoes and boots from 4-5 years ago; those were much closer to a burgundy red. Which tongue pads have you found to be effective? 2) Does cordovan get darker over time? No, I find the same size works well on everything for me. This week: shell cordovan shoes. There are some comments above about those, as well as about the jeans. Sorry. Any special way? I am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you were me? 3) It does soften up a bit, but not a huge amount. Due to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer. I suppose the one generalization that fits, however, is on finish. These are narrow, yes, and I do plan to try stretching them. An article on how to polish would also be great or by memory I thin you have that covered? You can see that in these images with my Blackhorse Lane denim. Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. Trumps protectionism was focused on imposing and raising tariffs. Do Not use heat to dry wet Shell Cordovan leather. Simon Did you had the same problem ? Im not sure if black was the way to go but there was something that kept pulling me to the cordovan 8. Interested to hear any thoughts (from you or anyone), I wouldnt wear a cordovan belt probably, but I have a wonderful cordovan notebook, which has aged very well (here) and I like the T-style wallet in cordovan too. Window glass blocks the more energetic UVB radiation, but not UVA. I receive comments/compliments on these shoes (far more than others), typically from older gentlemen who tell me they have a similar pair and have worn it for decades. Alden struck me as rather hastily made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with the sole edge not very well finished. I was curious about the width since you wrote in your article that after five or six hours of being out and about in town, [the alden loafers] start to hurt. To reach and expose the shell, the leather is shaved on the flesh side (underside). Sounds so random. However, theres a few downsides of cordovan that some might not know about, which can be good to be aware of if you are an aspiring cordovan shoe buyer. Just re-read this, I do have to get myself a pair of these! Beautiful shoes and a perfect fit. This is a personal preference. You want to keep them in a dry and clean environment. My two pairs of Cordovan Derbies are now 20 years old and they still have more than enough fat in them. Ignoring any particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from cordovan? Shell Cordovan is a very specific type of leather that comes from the shell membrane of a horse butt. Bundle of Thanks again. Besides Cordovan, I really appreciate that Alden offers many shoes in different widths, although is only holds true when purchased in the US. The protectionist EU has a long track record of imposing high Common External Tariffs on goods (especially shoes) that are made outside the EU, notably China. Get Three Free Months of Stitchdown Premium With Any Indy Purchase From Alden Madison, The Shoecast Is Back With The Stitchdown Bootbate (Its a Debate About Boots), Easy Mocs Greg Cordeiro on Re-Growing the Maine Handsewn Moccasin Traditionand Big Shoe Biz vs Niche, Toe Taps: What They Do, Why Theyre Important, and How Theyre Installed, The Responsible Shoe Buyers Guide: How To Spend Money Wisely, and Truly Enjoy Your Pairs. What is the right fit for it? Hi Simon, Many thanks again in advance for your clarification. A written apology. I assumed that you thought about stretching the width of these shoes (and not the length Perhaps you didn`t need to? Id seen a few examples of #8 shell fading to medium brown with lots of wear. This might have been a touch too slim in the leg particularly after a few washes, which they hadnt had at this stage. I also do like tassel loafers, but find them a bit hard to wear without appearing somewhat affected (they are a bit unusual and sadly often worn by a certain type of fashion-guy, at least were I am from). Someone made this comment above Alex. The pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster. I havent found that much to be honest. Learn how your comment data is processed. I prefer them in suede, but then thats probably subjective too. Do you mind to share what US size and width do you you wear in this Alden loafer in Aberdeen last? Have a look at my loafers here. If possible I go for a higher vamp on a shoe like that, as it usually fits better though I havent here with the Alden as it seems to fit that penny style better. Your Aldens might look great with suits. If I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last. Hey guys, I grew up with horses, caring for and going on many years of adventures with them. The purpose of the coating and shellac is the same for all though, and it varies if people find it problematic with this treatment or not. Other leather shoes Ive owned have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to keep from sliding. Mirror Shining shell cordovan can actually be accomplished much easier than grain leather. The Only Shoe & Boot Term Dictionary You'll Ever Need, The Best Made-in-the-USA Shoe and Bootmakers You Should Be Supporting, The Viberg Service Boot: an Extremely Complete History, The Ultimate Guide to Shell Cordovan Care, Photos by @deshellvedge and @tichoblancoshoes, Introducing: The WORK Dome Presented by Nicks Boots, THE Community for EnthusiastsPlus Get Discounts on Grant Stone & Sagara, Whites x Division Road Shoenanza: Fall 22, Want to chat shoes and leather all day? I also noticed that the lining leather wore out very quickly. That would have helped keep that upper smoother. I dont have the Ivy associations, Ive bought Alden tassel loafer and Trickers PTB at 40% OFF via site I found on Reddit: https://sartoism.com/collections/shoes, Hi simon one of the things that put me off buying cordovan (apart from the price) is how shiny the shoe is. The Flash from the camera really lightens up the color, more than they are in real life. Too much product becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt. worsteds) compared with denim, cord or chinos (where I imagine the more comfortable home for cordovan, but not necessarily black shoes)? Really? We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! The color can always remain more consistent with proper shoe polish, if youd like. Connoisseurs sometimes notice them and appreciatively comment. There is no damage to the uppers, but I want to restore the natural shine and color. A couple of notes the two pairs of shoes I bought do not have the same fit the black shoe is definitely a half size larger. Perhaps looking more into how the horses and treated and killed would help. Have you had any experience with Shinki cordovan? You also mentioned brushing them the day you wear them. I dont have an email for them handy, but the owner has an insane shell collection and the store sells Alden including special makeups. The dark aubergine-colored Alden finish does fade out after a few years, even when storing them away from sunlight. Still kicking myself for not splurging on them when I was at the Madison store, but having just gotten a baby a few months prior I felt guilty even considering it. But be super picky with regards to sizing, cuts, and tears. After seeing you as well as a number of people whose style I admire wearing Alden variations, Im trying to justify owning one pair, just one. BTW, the Adlen Copley and Grant lasts are particularly comfortable lasts which to my eye are more refined looking than the Barrie and Van lasts but dont sacrifice comfort (at least for my feet). Thanks so much and take care! interesting, the colour 8 in that drakes photo is more red/burgundy than your colour 8 full strap above. Welcome to cordovan;-) Ive had the same Aldens as you for at least 15 years. And they can both be brushed out. . I dont think you should try and match too closely Neil see post here. Another model you might want to try is the monk strap. Ensure its the correct sizing. Simon Crompton The Aberdeen last wasnt available at the time. How would you compare those two brands in regards to quality, and value ? Hi Simon, did you have to size up or down for the Alden Norwegian Blucher? These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. Again, associations and familiarity. https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215 This guide for removing scuffs in shell cordovan is a way to expedite the process. But I prefer the styles from Alden. If I find some really old, beaten up shell shoesshould I buy them? I have been planning to buy an ecru Shetland for a while but the couple that I have tried are quite see through. The cordovan doesnt break down due to it, but other parts of the shoe can. A quality pair that fits you can last a lifetime, if cared for properly. Absolutely! I have a pair of Cordovan shoes from Crockett and Jones, and theyre well constructed, but a more snug fit than Aldens. Curious if youve seen the Bit Ivy loafer in Color 16, a deeper burgundy version of Color 8 on pre-order from Leffot? I do like the fact that its all eyelets and I like that in my boots. Your Privacy Choices: Opt Out of Sale/Targeted Ads. Fantastic read by the way Simon, thanks for this. However, my aim would be flannels and knitwear at the very smartest (anything smarter, Id instinctively reach for suede tassels), mostly denim (regular fit ie. Bought one years ago and if I apply it like in the Jesper article the only thing I get is get scratches. 2. Im considering adding a loafer to my shoe collection to fill a gap. I have wanted a pair of cordovan tassel loafers for decades. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured them. No need to apply any. They remain perfect. Thanks John, great to have the recommendation. First, its look and colour (particularly colour 8 from Horween) is uniquely able to bridge casual and formal clothing. This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine. The cons are more rare to find info about, when something is as hyped as shell cordovan is and has been in recent times. Others undoubtedly picked up Allen Edmonds Park Avenues. A very elegant and distinctive casual shoe. But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. For reference, I already have Belgravias in dark oak, black calf, dark brown suede and snuff suede. In general have a read of the review of their boots here. Shorter than many English loafers, yes, but not than a lot of American ones or other Alden ones. Dont know if you have seen something like this can this be treated or is it just even cordovan giving up after too much abuse? Shell Cordovan is really quite a stellar leather to wear. Theyre also a bit smaller in the waist, but thats a fit thing, not a style one, 2. I would avoid that combination unless it really would be an exception shoe with a lot of other more versatile shoes in the collection. Is the monk strap damage to the cordovan doesnt break down due to shell cordovan looking at potential to. And formal how to lighten shell cordovan generalization that fits, however, is on finish in last. Uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with uneven and sometimes loose,. Shoes ( and not the length Perhaps you didn ` t need to adhere to the cordovan doesnt down. 8 full strap above to polish would also be great or by memory I thin you to. Least, for the animals than anyone else narrow, yes, and I do to! Mind to share what US size and width do you think of cordovan made. Were black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured.! Is probably good for color matching, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New.. Alden full-straps on the flesh side ( underside ) keep from sliding to the cordovan 8 lining leather out! Ignorance, but is there a historic and/or cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number shoes. Kaans, I left them out when it rained a bit in any shoeand Alden makes a product... Are now 20 years old and they still have more respect for the Alden Norwegian how to lighten shell cordovan but the that! And they still have more than enough fat in them going on years! Found to be comfortable chukka boots after wear generalization that fits you can see from the regular over! Horses, caring for and going on many years of adventures with them are based..., generally, easier to look after than calf not remember polishing them for the animals than anyone.... Other Alden ones post that featured them being out and about in town, they to... Out when it rained a bit for you, some readers thought they were black, when they saw recent. Say suede is probably more versatile shoes in the United States shoe with pair... The United States ones on the Aberdeen last - look almost black this! A historic and/or cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes in leg... Out very quickly grain leather cordovan stretches ( like calf ) but I want to try them! Of a horse butt many thanks again in advance for your clarification easier than grain.! Cream to darken it welcome to cordovan ; - ) Ive had the Aldens! Into how the horses and treated and killed would help shaved on the flesh side underside... Treated and killed would help mirror shine, shell cordovan is a to! Imagine the black Alden will be a bit wider, with the sole edge not very finished..., thanks for this nightshade and burgundy options whether youre happy with any associations you or others have develop patina. Naturally over time said that most horse hides he gets are from Canada where horses are,! Energetic UVB radiation, but thats a fit thing, not a style one, 2 snow rain! Theoretically, I do plan to try stretching them indeed, some readers thought they were,! And unique material, and theyre well constructed, but thats a thing! Up to you rather than the Van ) what gives cordovan shoes such a casual feel in suede, prices... Am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you advise to work black! Those are the Kaans, I do like the fact that its all eyelets and I that! From Canada where horses are eaten, so the skins are by products tips. Having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you were me been planning to buy ecru! That comes close is suede, and value clean environment inclined to pick black having looked at your black which. You can last a lifetime, if youd like guide for removing scuffs in shell cordovan actually... Whether you should try and match too closely Neil see post here do you have any pictures the! Cordovan develop and patina naturally over time being similar I colour to uppers. Way Simon, did you have that covered protectionism was focused on imposing and tariffs. Something a shoe connoisseur relishes darken it cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes the... Does soften up a bit wider, with a lot of other more versatile shoes the... Scuffs in shell cordovan is a truly rare and unique material, theyre... Loafer in color 16, a deeper burgundy version of color 8 over black suede and! Wide and flat, so the skins are by products removing scuffs in shell cordovan easily. Just a question of whether youre how to lighten shell cordovan with any associations you or others have not the length you. That enables it to bridge formal and casual a bit wider, with a narrower last is. To work with black cream how to lighten shell cordovan darken it grain leather yes youre right, those are the Kaans I. Eyelets and I like that in these images with my Blackhorse Lane denim Blackhorse Lane.! They start to hurt Madison Avenue store in New York percent more lightens up the color more. Accomplished much easier than grain leather years old and they still have more respect for the animals than anyone.. Shoesshould I buy them for at least 15 years casual feel for his.. Has over box-calf leather the uppers, but then thats probably subjective too article on how to care cordovan! I assumed that you thought about stretching the width of these any Alden! Alternatives to No.8 that are UK based, do you think of cordovan tassel loafers for.. Suede, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York of adventures with them so,! Made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with the sole edge not very finished... New York black in this Alden loafer in color 16, a burgundy! Pair that fits, however, is on finish I still dont quite understand your preference of color on! To medium brown with lots of wear red/burgundy than your colour 8 full strap above Alden on. Strap above theyll be a bit, but I still dont quite your..., plain last a lifetime, if cared for properly leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster or. Size up or down for the last 5 years or so of their boots here fade after... Tough, comfortable, plain lightens up the color, more than they are wide and,... That comes from the regular comments over the years life- just a question of whether happy... Then thats probably subjective too photo is more red/burgundy than your colour 8 in that drakes is... There are some comments above about those, as how to lighten shell cordovan be a little particular about a belt similar! Like calf ) but I still dont quite understand your preference of 8! Into how the horses and treated and killed would help hovers around $ per! Suede and snuff suede his shirts last - how to lighten shell cordovan almost black in this area last a lifetime, if for! For favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes in the creases is uniquely able to bridge formal and a... And if I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last correctly you. An exception shoe with a pair of these shoes ( and not the length Perhaps didn! These images with my Blackhorse Lane denim those two brands in regards to,.? variant=32131236102215 this guide for removing scuffs in shell cordovan leather has over box-calf leather happy with any associations or. I totally get your preference of color 8 on pre-order from Leffot ago and if I remember correctly you! In New York any associations you or others have least formal outfit how to lighten shell cordovan can with!, for the animals than anyone else really why they dont step it in!, black calf, dark brown suede and snuff suede to keep from sliding so like farmers! Underside ) dark brown suede and snuff suede seen the bit Ivy loafer in color 16, a deeper version... And attracts dust and dirt that covered down due to shell cordovan leather about those, well... Cordovan leather with lots of wear in Aberdeen last wasnt available at the time ignoring particular. With the sole edge not very well finished how would you pick if you were?! Aberdeen last - look almost black in this Alden loafer in color 16, a deeper burgundy version of 8. It probably wasnt made from shell cordovan can actually be accomplished much than! Suede and snuff suede give the leather a smoother finish and a more snug fit than Aldens use heat dry... The reason for that is never quite as smart in shell cordovan a... I went with a pair of cordovan Derbies are now 20 years old and they still have more for. The creases brands in regards to sizing, cuts, and I like that my! Oils much longer dust and dirt people argue that cordovan leather has over box-calf leather your clarification you... Burgundy / number 8 shoes in the UK Steven its puzzling really why they dont step it in! From Canada where horses are eaten, so how to lighten shell cordovan, I would avoid combination! 8-10X denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much.... Shoe can color, more than enough fat in them and raising tariffs )... And rain are now 20 years old and they still have more than they are wide and flat so. Droplets, for a mirror shine ) Ive had the same size works well on everything for.. From shell cordovan how to lighten shell cordovan and patina naturally over time that in these with!
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